Desde el siglo XIX, los mexicanos festejamos las Fiestas Patrias con verbenas populares, que incluyen en la tradición el degustar diferentes bebidas locales como tequila, mezcal, cerveza, aguas de frutas naturales; vinos blancos, rojos, y diversos platillos típicos, entre los que figuran los Chiles en Nogada.
ORIGEN E HISTORIA
Los chiles en nogada, considerados como uno de los más exquisitos platillos de la cocina de México y de fama internacional.
Uno de los platillos mexicanos que cuentan con linaje, lugar y fecha de nacimiento, que este 28 de agosto cumplirán 183 años, pues tienen una importante relación con la consumación de la independencia de México.
Para algunos historiadores mexicanos, las inventoras del suculento platillo fueron las monjas Clarisas, mientras que para otros son las Madres Contemplativas Agustinas del Convento de Santa Mónica, de Puebla, capital del estado del mismo nombre, cercano a la Ciudad de México.
Según esta última versión, los chiles en nogada fueron preparados para festejar a Iturbide, emperador de México el 28 de agosto de 1821, en ocasión de su onomástico. Engalanado con los tres colores de la naciente bandera mexicana: blanco, verde y rojo
Ese día, el mandatario llegó a Puebla procedente de la entonces Villa de Córdoba, estado de Veracruz, donde el 24 de agosto de 1821 firmó el convenio por medio del cual España reconoció la independencia de México, iniciada el 15 de septiembre de 1810.
En ese entonces se utilizó una bandera fue llamada de Las Tres Garantías, y entonces el color blanco simbolizaba la religión, el verde la independencia y el rojo la unión.
Se dice que las monjas de Puebla, contagiadas del espíritu y el fervor patrio reinante en esos días, decidieron preparar un platillo que tuviera los tres colores de la bandera; chiles rellenos.
Desde entonces siguiendo esta receta se mezclan los sabores dulce y salado, con al menos 20 ingredientes, entre los que destacan las carnes de res y cerdo y diversas frutas, principalmente de origen tropical, y que sólo pueden adquirirse en agosto o septiembre.
Una vez que se rellenan con esos ingredientes y, según la receta, se rebozan con huevo, los chiles son presentados a los comensales, bañados con una salsa de nuez y aderezos que forman los colores de la bandera mexicana actual:
- El verde es representado por el mismo chile y las hojas de perejil.
- El blanco por la nogada, que se obtiene al mezclar la nuez molida con crema, leche.
- El rojo por los granos de la granada.
Los chiles en nogada también fueron servidos durante un banquete ofrecido en Puebla al archiduque austriaco Maximiliano de Habsburgo, y a su esposa Carlota, de paso hacia la Ciudad de México, donde el 10 de abril de 1864 fue coronado como el segundo emperador de México. El ya fallecido y laureado escritor mexicano Salvador Novo, quien fue cronista de la capital del país, dijo que los Chiles en Nogada son históricos, estéticos y sabrosos, y que nunca deben dejar de comerse.
El doctor en historia e investigador de la Escuela Nacional de Antropología e Historia (ENAH), José Luis Juárez López, comentó:
Todo relato culinario es importante, “porque nos dice mucho de los pueblos que los elaboran, tanto de su cocina como de su visión del mundo. Las leyendas culinarias en México fueron acogidas con gran entusiasmo, y se convirtieron en verdades absolutas para el pueblo. Éstas se iniciaron con una publicación de 1925, que cuenta la supuesta invención del mole poblano por una monja en un convento de Puebla. A partir de entonces, este relato se escribió y recitó una y otra vez hasta convertirse en una parte crucial del discurso culinario nacional mexicano. Y el caso de los chiles en nogada es otra de las piezas de dicho discurso”.
“Aun cuando se asegura que estos chiles se sirvieron por primera vez en honor de Agustín de Iturbide en los años en que fue emperador, las fuentes primarias, o sea los recetarios editados de la primera parte del siglo XIX, no los registran. Por ejemplo, en el Manual del cocinero y la cocinera, de 1849, que se publicó en Puebla por entregas, no aparecen los chiles en nogada y sí en cambio una receta de gallina en nogada, repitiéndose esta situación, en 1858, en el Nuevo cocinero mexicano en forma de diccionario; en La cocinera poblana y el libro de las familias, de 1872, y en el recetario de la señorita María Isla, Manual de Cocina, publicado en Puebla en 1912, que tampoco los incluyó”.
El registro de los chiles en nogada empezó a ser receta común en los documentos culinarios a partir de la década de 1930, siendo registrado por Mercedes de la Parra y la profesora Ana María Hernández; “por lo tanto, podemos afirmar que este plato llamado neoclásico, comenzó a hacerse oficial la anécdota de que los chiles en nogada se inventaron en Puebla y para Agustín de Iturbide.
Dos escritores parecen haber sido los responsables de ello. Por un lado, Artemio del Valle Arizpe, y por el otro Agustín Aragón y Leiva, quien defendía la cocina mexicana en la década de los treinta, “y quien incluyó en su Diccionario de recetas de cocina, de 1942, que los chiles se habían ‘inventado en honor de Agustín I’”.
“Pero como en todo elemento mítico, las piezas que componen el relato son difusas.
Las versiones varían. Asimismo, el especialista citó que un elemento interesante de este ensamble cocina-historia es el hecho de que la invención haya sido en Puebla, y por ello es conveniente mencionar de nuevo la otra construcción que ya se había difundido: la de la madre del convento de Santa Rosa y el mole que hizo para un obispo o para el virrey.
“Cuando se propuso la idea de otro portento culinario en Puebla no representó problema alguno, ya que al momento en que aparecieron las primeras versiones históricas de los chiles en nogada, ya estaba aceptada la versión del mole… y el venero culinario poblano se seguirá remachando con otras invenciones, como la del rompope y la del camote”.
PUNTOS CULINARIOS DESTACABLES
Este platillo es una tradición poblana que ha sido elaborada todos los rincones del país. Sus características de olor, textura y sabor, resultado de la combinación de frutas, semillas y condimentos. Esta receta ha rebasado fronteras; incluso se busca la denominación “Patrimonio Cultural Intangible de la Humanidad” por parte de la UNESCO.
Tomando como base una receta en particular de chile en nogada y considerando que en cada casa se les da un toque especial o se le adiciona diferentes ingredientes; en su preparación se destaca:
- Selección de carnes de cerdo y res cuya combinación logra un gusto especial para el platillo.
- Una variedad de frutos secos: almendra, nuez, pistache, cacahuate, nuez de la India, avellana, piñón rosa.
- Frutas frescas: plátano macho, durazno, manzana y pera.
- Frutas deshidratadas: como pasas y acitrón.
- Otros ingredientes indispensables como ajo, cebollas, jitomate que da sazón especial a todo guiso realizado con él.
La nogada que baña el chile poblano es una salsa compuesta de:
- Nuez de Castilla como ingrediente principal, nueces de reja para fortificar el sabor.
- Otorgan un gusto especial el Queso panela y el queso de cabra, así como la leche entera y la canela.
- Se le adiciona crema para batir, crema agria, jerez, azúcar, sal y la pimienta blanca.
- Y el toque artístico decorativo se lo da el rojo de los granos de la granada.
Se requieren 75 gramos de nuez de Castilla pelada para preparar la nogada necesaria para un chile de 120 gramos; lo que resulta en un platillo cuyo costo total varía entre 260 a 550 pesos por kilo.
PUNTOS NUTRICIONALES DESTACABLES
Hay ciertas estrategias para hacer algunos cambios, en el platillo sin que cambie importantemente el sabor y convertirlo en un alimento más saludable.
- Usar chiles de tamaño pequeño a mediano.
- No repetir la ración.
- Tostar el chile, no freírlo, ni capearlo.
- Utilizar aceite vegetal y no manteca para freír los ingredientes.
- Utilizar lácteos bajos en grasas.
- Azucarar con edulcorante artificial.
- Usar fruta natural en vez de cristalizada.
Pero aún así continuará siendo un plato que se debe comer con moderación.
COMPOSICIÓN CALÓRICA
Por cada porción de la receta tradicional (1 chile por porción): 505 calorías, 20 g. de proteína, 23 g. de grasa, 14 g. de grasas saturadas, 12% de calorías de grasas saturadas, 62 g. de carbohidratos, 305 mg de sodio, 5 g de fibra.
Por cada porción de la receta modificada: 329 calorías, 21 g de proteína, 16 g. de grasa, 2 g de grasas saturadas, 5% de calorías de grasas saturadas, 28 g de carbohidratos, 424 mg. de sodio, 5 g. de fibra.
Algunas características gastronómicas como las técnicas de preparación, gustos culinarios, la sazón, el factor económico, y la disponibilidad de los ingredientes influyen en las formas de preparación, lo que genera un paladar familiar por los platillos.
Todos estos factores hacen que aquella frase que dice que El platillo de la casa es el mejor; es cierta.
Les hago una atenta invitación para que escuchen mis comentarios sobre nutrición en el 98.5 de Fm, en el área metropolitana de la Ciudad de México; cada martes y jueves, dentro del Noticiero Reporte del Sr. Martín Espinoza.Cualquier duda con gusto la responderé aquí o vía e-amil: dra_monik9@yahoo.com.mx
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